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This Website Contains Product Affiliate Links. We May Receive A Commission If You Make A Purchase After Clicking On One Of These Links At No Additional Cost To You.Why Hairspray Chip your Model?
How to hairspray weather your scale model. I love to turn my models into well worn and loved items that fool you into thinking that the item has had a tough life in any scale and get the viewer to believe the same thing! I think that is most scale modellers plan when they want to create realism in their projects.
When I first started chipping my models with the hairspray method I went straight out and purchased a chipping fluid from MIG which I think I saw one of my favourite modellers using. It is great and I still use it now and then but I also found a method that suits me better.
I only have one Airbrush which is my workhorse and I have a blog all about it if you want to read about it here! I am patient but not when it comes to blockages and hold ups with my tools. I like them to just work if you get what I mean? To get to my point, chipping fluid can and will block and clog your airbrush and can be very frustrating when all you want to do is finish your model.
I was torn because I loved the results chipping fluid gave me but not that I had to strip clean my Airbrush every time I used the stuff. This is when I remember watching a video on YouTube and the person was using normal hairspray from a spray can and getting the same results! So I went into our bedroom and picked up my wife’s can of hairspray (which I still haven’t replaced) and put it to work on my next project and have never looked back since.
There are some of the more well known modellers that recommend TREsemme Extra Hold but for me the Wella hold is just fine and I bet if I picked up most firm hold hairsprays you would get similar results. Best to just experiment yourself.
I also spray right onto the model I am working on instead of spraying into the airbrush and I find that it works as well and is way easier. Just remember to hold at a good distance when spraying and don’t hold in one position for too long as you will get pooling which is no ones friend! 🙂
I can only speak from experience here but for me the best results for smaller or more realistic chipping results in the 1:35th unto 1:20th scale come from me using Acrylic based paints from Tamiya or Mr Hobby Aqueous. I have used with Lacquers but you will have to scrub harder to get any kind of results.
Chipping In Action
Here is a 1:20th scale 3d printed barrel I wanted to age for my latest project using the hairspray method. I first Base coat the model in my favourite Mr Mahogany surfacer 1000 or Red Oxide. This always gives me a great base if I want to have a rusty finish. Leave to dry and then apply the hairspray all over and let dry for about 3-5mins.
Then I top coat the model in the desired colour. In this case I wanted to use a Red because It went well with the model I was painting.
After the top coat had dried, in this case I left for around 15mins (but you can play with this time as the results will differ) I then took a stiff bristled brush and dipped in just tap water and started to rub the desired area. You can also use a toothpick but don’t go to heavy as you can go down to the base layer. At first you might think nothing is happening but after the water penetrates the paint layer the paint will start to come away in small chips. Just be aware that the harder you scrub the more that the paint will be removed. I studied a few pictures of old rusty barrels and knew the look I wanted and I would recommend this to any subject you are trying to imitate.
Once you have the desired look you are after you can dab dry the model and then coat with a layer of varnish to lock in the look. After this you are ready to add Enamel effects to further enhance the look or just leave it at this stage if that’s what you are after.
